Puerto Tranquilo/Cerro Castillo to just north of Coyhaique

March 17, 2018

Puerto Tranquilo/Cerro Castillo to just north of Coyhaique

Well, neither of us wanted this. Leaving Coyhaique at 6pm in search of a "cabana" on the northern outskirts of town. Steep mountain climb outta town and no cabanas in sight. Just uphill, uphill, uphill. We must not have been thinking well, cause our water bottles were only half full and our reserves were empty. Just didn't want to stay in that biggest town in Patagonia, Chile. We were already tired. (Kinda been tired the entire way!) We wanted a rest day.

Whenever we are about to start looking for a camp for the night, we ask each other, "so, what do you want in tonight's camp?" Sometimes the highest priority is a wind break, or hidden well from the road - 100% safe feeling, or flat, or by a creek, etc.

A week or two ago we added in, "and your mystery camp prize?" Because there is ALWAYS something. Earwigs or Mosquitos or lumpy ground. Or aggressive, sock attacking burrs or visible from the road...

But tonight? We only wanted a cabana. "Just outside of town." "400m from the road." "With wifi!"

We'd had a riding day full of "mystery ride prizes." We woke up in... Well, let's just say, not our finest camp of all time. Be's camp wish was "to find a camp by 5pm. That's it." I don't remember what mine was - flat? Hidden?

We seem to get most of what we ask for and we did get off the road, just at 5. And it was flat. A flat dustbowl surrounded by wet cow paddies and trees that mostly hid us from the road. We woke up there, barely talking. Both grumpy and internal. I packed in a hurry, never much liking the camp from the beginning.

We rode through undulating hills. Farmland. 30k from Coyhaique. 15. 10. A light headwind.

And then! Mystery ride prize #1! Tiny gnats flying straight for our eyes.

Followed by mystery ride prize #2: a fellow from Santiago on his road bike, coming from behind. "Hola." "Como estas?" "Donde vienes?" Friendly cyclist chit chat. And then the - "I'm staying here ______, at this hostel." "Oh okay. Cool."

Silence. Him matching my speed.

Chit chat chit chat chit chat.

He didn't seem to pick up on the fact that I didn't have much to say. That the conversation was already over. Need to get better about pushing people out. Stating more obvious boundaries. He finally left saying, "you can find me at that hostel, _____, if you want to."

I didn't want to.

Soon thereafter, mystery ride prize #3! CONSTRUCTION! Nothing like a one way road, a line of 50+ cars and trucks, and a steep, narrow, curving paved path ahead with no shoulder. The trucks honked and we bumbled over to the rocky edge to let the stream of vehicles pass. A driver whistled. More honks. But 20 minutes later we made it. Coyhaique. Fruit, veg, food re supply. Lunch in the square. Ice cream. Made our plan to have a rest day in that cabana, just north of town. We'd seen several on the south side so it seemed like a good plan.

Except, where were they?

The sky darkened, thick black clouds gathered in the mountains ahead. "Oh, Patagonia! Full of mystery ride prizes today!"

We found a questionable farm stream and filled our water jug, since it looked like we'd be camping. We zoomed downhill as the first rain drops fell.

And at the bottom of the hill? Near Rio Bagues? A little sign: "cabanas!" Further north than we expected, but 400m off the road (mystery camp prize: Straight Uphill 400m off the road). No Wifi, but a host that brought us eggs, bread rolls, and plums (gratis!) so we could "stay strong for our riding!" We wheeled our bikes under the covered porch. Our host lit the wood fire stove and said goodnight. And then the sky let loose all it was holding. Be and I squealed in delight. "Eee! And we are inside!!!" The winds howled and we sipped our tea and laughed, "keep it up Patagonia! Say all you've got to say!"

Xoxo Kelsey